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Like a breath of fresh air
NOW that spring is well and truly kicking in, it could
be time to reassess your wardrobe. Yet with high street fashions
currently more changeable than the weather, it's worth seeking out
the affordable and enduring originality provided by Edinburgh-based
designer Ruth Morris. Inspired by the Scottish landscape and textile
industry, Roobedo - Morris's lifelong nickname that now titles her
business venture - even offers a made-to-measure service to guarantee
that elusive perfect fit.
After graduating from the Scottish School of Textiles,
Morris, 33, used her early career in retail to test the water with
her own designs. "Creating clothes is basically a hobby that
has developed into a business for me," she says. "My first
job was in a clothes shop, where several people approached me to
ask if my own clothes, which I had made myself, were available in
the store. This gave me the confidence I needed to set up my own
company."
The process took more than two years, but, in January
2000, Roobedo was born as a small label available online and via
mail order, providing women's clothing and accessories for a look
which the creator summarises as "urban dressing with a blast
of country air running through it". It wasn't long before the
orders began flooding in.
Morris believes her success can be attributed to her
no-fuss philosophy. "My designs infuse simple classics with
a contemporary edge. Comfort is a top priority, so I use well-finished,
high-quality natural fabrics that are soft and tactile, such as
cord, denim, cotton, fine jersey and machine washable wool mixes.
My aim is to create an elegant silhouette using long lines to emphasise
the female form. The look is all about achieving understated elegance."
This is seen clearly in her signature wide-leg slax
and sophisticated suits, skirts and jackets - everyday items which
can be dressed up or down to meet the occasion. They appeal to women
of all ages, sizes and situa- tions - Roobedo, it seems, has no
"typical" clientele. "My target market is very broad
- I cater for women from the ages of 20 to 70,"says Mor- ris.
"As I use a wide cross-section of fabrics, it means I have
a broad price range, so my label is accessible to everyone. Often,
though, there's no set pattern to the clothes people go for, with
older women choosing the denim slax and my younger customers buying
clothes in Harris tweed."
This Harris tweed has become Roobedo's trademark,
and is much more to Morris than simply another fabric. An appreciation
of nature and Scotland's remote landscapes, particularly the beaches
of the Outer Hebrides, is the key influence in her designs. "As
a child, I holidayed there regularly and fell in love with the wide-open
spaces and the sheer tranquillity of it all. The peacefulness prompts
an inner sense of well-being and confidence that I think is reflected
in my clothes.
"People like the ethos and history that comes
with Harris tweed. It's all quite romantic - the toil of our ances-
tors and the island traditions. I think it's important that we don't
lose sight of that. It's unique and a beautiful fabric to handle,
and it also comes in a wide range of colours, patterned with chalkstripe
and herringbone. I add a modern element to it with my own original
cuts, and I use a super featherweight version that is nice and light.
My customers love it,"she adds.
Yet tweed isn't exactly a warm weather option, and
it makes way in Roobedo's new spring/summer collection for linen/cotton
mixes and lightweight canvas. "The same straight lines and
styles are there, but they're in much lighter, floaty material that
hangs really nicely," Morris says. "Everything is inspired
by the hues of early summer days - the clear, light blue skies,
golden sand and the earthy green/brown shades of seaweed washed
up on to the rocks."
Morris is known for adding large, imposing and powerful
images of the nature she so loves on to her designs, and is developing
a new print of the Flag Iris, common in the Hebrides at this time
of year. "I'm transposing them on to fabric using sprayed images
as opposed to the screen prints I normally use, and I'm really happy
with the results." she says. This process gives more of a fuzzy
edge. which is a bit different."
Despite business growing steadily Morris is still
very much hands-on. "I make pretty much everything in the collection
myself I get so much satisfaction from it. I enjoy the personal
approach which is why my bespoke service is so important to me About
50% of the clothes I sell are made to measure. Of course I sell
clothes off the rail too, but mostly I find that once people have
used the bespoke service, they continue to do so. There's a massive
difference in how you look and feel between clothes that almost
fit and those made just for you.
Yet even with an international clientele and business
booming at home. Morris is adamant that we aren't about to witness
major changes in the rapidly growing label. "I still want to
keep the company small and manageable"
Will she be keeping one eye on the high street this
season? "Although I love designers such as Paul Smith and Vivienne
Westwood l tend to do my own thing and not be influenced by others.
I don t really follow mainstream fashion. I'm more interested in
being completely original and creating styles that I know will endure.
Roobedo is available at Concrete Wardrobe, Edinburgh,
through mail order and online at www.roobedo.com.
e-mail on ruth@roobedo.com
www.theherald.co.uk
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